改变我们饮食方式的十大事件

来源10 Things That Changed the Way We Eat - Newsweek
译者Edwards10 Things That Changed the Way We Eat
A Food Revolution, From Microwaves to Mickey D's
改变我们饮食方式的十大事件
——食物革命，从微波炉到麦当劳
The basic process of eating has remained unaltered throughout humanity's history: chew, swallow, digest. But of course, what we put in our mouths, and how we find it, has evolved a great deal over the last century. To help us track that evolution--from Julia Child to Guy Fiere, from cookbooks to allrecipes.com--we picked the brains of two professional foodies: cookbook author Barbara "B" Smith, and restaurateur Michel Nischan. Together, they helped us compile a juicy list of 10 things that changed the way we eat. Bon appetit! 纵观人类历史，我们的饮食方式并没有发生过多大的改变：咀嚼、吞咽、然后消化。当然了，我们吃进嘴里的东西，以及我们是如何发现那些东西的，都在过去的一百年里发生了巨大的变化。来帮我们回溯这些变化的脉络的有——从朱莉娅·查尔德到盖·费李瑞，从食谱到allrecipes网站——我们还挑选了两位专业的美食智囊：食谱书作者芭芭拉·B·史密斯和餐厅老板米歇尔·奈斯陈。他们帮我们收集、总结了一份非常有趣的清单——“十件改变我们饮食习惯的东西”。好吧，开吃！
Immigration
事件一、移民

Charles Rex Arbogast / AP
Photo: Chicago-based Chutney Joe's Indian Diner.
图：位于芝加哥的乔氏印度酸辣酱餐厅
Italians brought pasta, Japanese brought sushi, and Mexicans brought tacos. Indeed, when we talk about America as a melting pot, we're not just referring to demographics. A rich history of immigration has made the U.S. one of the most culinarily eclectic places in the world, with American urban centers offering diners the chance to experience pretty much any taste. (For exhibit A, tryGoogling "Afghan food in Queens.") And as America has become more diverse, so have chefs' palates. "A couple years ago, at an American hotel, we had lion," Smith says. "It was pretty good."
意大利人带来了面食，日本人带来了寿司，而墨西哥人带来的是玉米面豆卷。 当我们在谈论美国就像一个大熔炉的时候，那可并不仅仅是指人口特征。丰富的移民历史使美国成为了世界上兼收并蓄美食最多的国家之一，因为用餐者可以在美国的城市中心获得体验任何一种美食的机会（为了展示其中一种美食，试试Google一下“皇后区的阿富汗食物”）。随着美国变得越来越多元化，那些厨师长们的味觉也变得丰富起来。“几年前在美国的酒店里，我们可以吃到狮子，”史密斯说，“那是相当的美味。”
Microwave Ovens
事件二、微波炉

Pictorial Parade-Getty Images
Photo: In 1966, a woman demonstrates the Litton Series 500 microwave oven.
图：1966年，一名妇女在演示“立顿500”系列微波炉
When Raytheon developedthe first microwave oven--installed in a Boston restaurant in 1947--it was almost 6 feet tall, weighed 750 pounds, and cost several thousand dollars. The technology proved effective at quickly heating food, and within a few years companies were selling commercial models. Unfortunately, the high price, enormous size, and energy inefficiency prevented it from really catching on with consumers until the late '60s. Eventually, the ubiquity of the microwave spawned a steady stream of ready-to-cook TV dinners and, more recently, microwavable health food.
雷神研发的第一台微波炉——于1947年被安装在波士顿大酒店——高将近6英尺，重750磅，花费了几千美元。这种技术被证明在快速加热食物方面非常有效，于是在短短的几年内公司就开始销售商业型号了。不幸的是，高昂的价格，巨大的体积，再加上能耗低效，使其直到60年代末都未能得到消费者的青睐。最终，微波炉的普遍使用催生出了一股在电视剧前吃即使午餐的持久潮流，而到了最近，则是可微波的健康食品。
Julia Child
事件三、茱莉亚·查尔德

Bachrach-Getty Images
Photo: American chef Julia Child in her famous kitchen.
图：美国厨师茱莉亚·查尔德在她著名的厨房里。
For years, the conventional wisdom among cookbook publishers was that Americans were uninterested in learning to prepare fancy foreign foods. Julia Child turned that notion on its head when she released Mastering the Art of French Cooking, a book that propelled her to national fame as she led a new generation of American cooks in making French cuisine from scratch. "Julia Child demystified cooking," said Marc Pachter, director of the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, in 2002. "She came into our homes and showed us that cooking, especially French cooking, was fun and something that anyone could do in their own home." To pay respect to the godmother of celebrity chefs, the Smithsonian erected a life-sized replica of Child's kitchen, which was made famous in her various TV cooking shows.
多年以来，在食谱出版人的传统观念中，美国人对学习烹饪花样繁多的外国食物是没有兴趣的。茱莉亚·查尔德在发表了《掌握法国烹饪艺术》一书之后，转变了人们头脑中的观念。那是一本为她赢得了全国性荣誉的书籍，因为她引领新一代的美国厨师从对法国烹饪技术的抓狂到熟练掌握的过程。“茱莉亚·查尔德让烹饪变得不再那么神秘”，史密斯森美国历史国家博物馆的负责人马克·帕赫特在2002谈到，“她来的我们家里向我们展示厨艺，尤其是法国菜的烹饪，非常有意思，而且任何人都可以在自己家里动手去做。”为了表达对这位厨界名流的恩人的敬意，史密斯森博物馆同比例复制了一间查尔德厨房，就是那个在她众多电视烹饪节目中出名的那间。
Fast Food
事件四、快餐食品
Mario Tama / Getty Images
Photo: A customer leaves a McDonald's in New York.
图：一名顾客正从纽约的一家麦当劳里走出来
Offering irresistibly convenient service, chains like McDonald's, Wendy's, Burger King, and Taco Bell have become staples for hungry on-the-go commuters. But for some, filling up on greasy, caloric food isn't a choice. Studies have shown that poor neighborhoods tend to haveless access to fresh produce and other healthy foods, while fast-food restaurants can be found on almost every corner. The result? One super-sized generation. 提供着无法抗拒的快捷服务，诸如麦当劳、温迪快餐、汉堡王以及塔可钟等连锁品牌都成为了那些走在路上饥饿的上班族的主食。不过对有些人来说，这些高脂肪高热量的食物并不是他们的选择。研究表明那些贫穷的街区倾向于食用并不新鲜的和健康的食物，尽管几乎在每个角落都能发现快餐店。那么结果是什么呢？超级肥胖的一代。
 
The Food Network
事件五、美食节目
E.L. Hubbard / Dayton Daily News-AP
Photo: Celebrity chef Rachel Ray during a Food Network taping.
图：著名厨师蕾切尔·雷正在录制一档美食节目
Are you more of a Guy Fieri or a Rachael Ray in the kitchen? The rise ofthe Food Network, which was founded in 1993 and is watched in more than 90 million households, has made that question a relevant one for many home cooks. "It's almost like a menu," says Smith. "Somebody is watching, and they're like, 'I want to be more like him,' or 'I'm more like her.' They want to mimic their favorite celebrity chefs." And they do, through an entire ecosystem of Food Network products, cookbooks, and, of course, shows.
你在厨房里更像盖·费李瑞还是蕾切尔·雷呢？随着那些创办于1993年，拥有9千万之多的家庭观众的美食节目的兴起，这个问题就变得与每一个家庭厨师密切相关了。“那几乎就像是一本菜单”史密斯说，“有人在观看，而且喜欢，‘我想我更喜欢他’或是‘我更像她’，他们想去模仿他们喜爱的著名厨师。”通过一套完整的美食栏目、书籍制作系统，当然还有电视节目，他们做到了。
First Government Food Pyramid
事件六、第一个官方发布的“膳食金字塔”

Joe Raedle / Getty Images
Photo: Agriculture Secretary Mike Johanns unveils the MyPyramid symbol, a new interactive food guidance system that replaced the old food pyramid.
图：农业部长麦克·约翰纳斯发布膳食金字塔的标识，一套替代旧的膳食金字塔的食物监控新型合作体系。
The federal government has been trying for almost a century to get Americans to eat better. In 1916, the U.S. Department of Agriculture published its first set of guidelines, titled "Food for Young Children." In 1943, the agency divided food into seven complex groups, which, by the 1970s, had been simplified and reorganized into five. But it wasn't until the USDA released the iconic 1992 food pyramid that the government finally found a shorthand that stuck. The chart was hung in classrooms throughout the country, and millions of children memorized the basic food groups. Nutritionists have long disputed the merits of the pyramid (do we really need all those carbs?), but there's no denying the impact it's had on our national awareness of how to eat healthy. In 2005, the USDA released the revamped MyPyramid and an accompanying Web site designed to help people develop personalized healthy-eating plans.
联邦政府为了改善美国人的饮食已经做了将近一个世纪的努力了。在1916年，农业部就设立了第一项名为“青少年饮食”的指导委员会。1943年，该机构把食物划分成七个综合大类，到七十年代又简化改编成五大类。但是直到美国农业部发布1992年膳食金字塔图标的时候，政府才最终发现了推行一种简单但隐晦的图标的做法。那副图表被挂在全国各地的教室里，几百万名学生背诵着那些基本的食物分类。尽管营养学家们长久以来一直在争论那副膳食金字塔的价值（我们真的需要所有的这些碳水化合物吗？），但是没有人否认太对唤醒国民对饮食健康的重视。2005年，美国农业部发布了一套全新的个性化的膳食金字塔和一个配套的为帮助人们改善个性化的饮食健康计划的网站。
 
The Obesity Epidemic
事件七、肥胖症
Scott J. Ferrell / Congressional Quarterly-Getty Images
Photo: A pair of sisters dressed as a grape and a carrot pass out plates to Senate staffers in Washington, D.C., with a message urging them to pass a nutrition bill.
图：华盛顿特区，一对身穿葡萄服和胡萝卜服的姐妹向参议员分发盘子以传递督促他们通过营养议案的信息。
According tofederal data, 68 percent of adults in the United States 20 years and older are overweight or obese. You have probably heard that figure or one like it countless times in recent years. Theobesity epidemic, which has worsened in the past decade, has made us rethink what we're putting in our mouths. "With all these figures coming out, there are a lot more drivers working to educate people on the importance of healthy eating," says Nischan. 根据联邦政府的数据，68%的20岁及以上的美国成年人超重或极端肥胖。最近几年这个数字你也许已经听说过无数次了。肥胖症在过去十年内的不断恶化让我们不得不重新思考我们吃进嘴里的东西。“随着所有这些数据的公布，有越来越多的司机开始教育人们健康饮食的重要性。”奈斯陈说道。
The Great Recession
事件八、大萧条
Damian Dovarganes / AP
Photo: A man who lost his job during the recession takes part in a Salvation Army project under which volunteer fruit pickers get financial assistance and a box of oranges in exchange for working once a week.
图：一名大萧条期间的失业者在参加救世军项目。改项目为水果采摘职业者提供财政资助，以及一箱橙子作为每周工作的报酬。
The Great Recession has created a newly frugal consumer willing to forsake the luxury of eating out in order to pay the bills. But Nischan says the penny-pinching has actually helped his Connecticut restaurant,Dressing Room. That's because it's a "homegrown" eatery that uses only locally grown ingredients to produce its dishes. When you buy a salad at Dressing Room, you're not only supporting the in-house chef who made it, you're supporting the local farmer who grew the vegetables. "If there's been a positive thing that's come out of the recession, it's that people are a lot more aware of how they spend their money," Nischan says.
大萧条催生出了一批节俭的消费者，他们为了支付各种账单而放弃了外出吃大餐的奢侈。但是奈斯陈说，正是这些“吝啬的”人实际上帮了康涅狄格的“更衣间”餐厅。那是因为它是一家“自家种植”餐厅。当你在“更衣间”买了一份沙拉，你不仅是在帮助在屋子里做饭的厨师，更是帮助那些种植蔬菜的农民。“如果有一件好事是因为大萧条而发生的，那就是人们更加关注如何去消费了。”奈斯陈说道。
 
The Internet
事件九、互联网
David Silverman / Getty Images
Photo: Yaniv Madar, head of the Seder Olam Kosher website, which helps people find kosher food options.
图：亚尼夫·莫达，逾越节奥兰犹太食品网站主管。该网站帮助人们寻找适合犹太人吃的食物。
The Internet would probably qualify on any list of things changed Americans' behavior substantially. In this case, recipe websites, restaurant guides likeYelp, and easy-access nutritional information provide foodies and casual diners alike with more information at their fingertips than they could get in 1,000 four-course meals. "People can do research now and find locally grown food more easily, find which restaurants to eat at, [and] research health benefits," Nischan says.
互联网可能最有资格从各个方面改变美国人生活方式。在这种情况下，美食网站，像呷脯之类的餐厅指南，还有容易获取的营养信息网站，都为美食家和休闲用餐者提供了丰富的信息。“人们现在可以很更容易地找到采用本地种植的蔬菜的餐厅，并决定去哪一家，而且还很容易搜索到有益健康的食物。”奈斯陈说道。
The Organic Craze
事件十、时尚的有机食品

Jeff Haynes / AFP-Getty Images
Photo: An aisle at a Whole Foods grocery store stocked with fresh organic produce.
图：在一个食品小卖部里堆满了有机食品。
Is organic food actually healthier than genetically modified fare, or is it all just hype? The fight to answer that question has been raging for years now, withbothsides using studies to bolster their arguments. Whatever the answer may be, the organic food and beverage industry has grown from $1 billion in 1990 to almost $25 billion in 2009, when more than a 10th of all produce sold was organically grown. So even if no one can agree on the health benefits, there's one thing that can't be denied--organic is something people are willing to pay for.
有机食品是不是真的比基因改造过的食品更健康？或者那仅仅是个广告宣传的噱头？对于这个问题的争论已经持续了数年之久，双方都在用实验证明他们的观点。无论答案是什么，有机食品和饮料产业的产值从1990年的10亿美元增长到2009年的将近250亿美元，其中有十分之一多的产值来自有机种植。所以即使没有人认同有机食品的健康价值，不能否认的是——越来越多的人愿意在有机食品上花费了。
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