Vanishing Venice 威尼斯之殇

来源：百度文库编辑：神马文学网时间：2024/04/29 14:06:42

Nowhere in Italy, where ¹⁾calamity comes ²⁾embellished with ³⁾rococo gestures and ⁴⁾embroidered in ⁵⁾exclamation points, is there a crisis more beautifully ⁶⁾framed than Venice. Neither land nor water, but shimmering somewhere in between, the city lifts like a ⁷⁾mirage from a ⁸⁾lagoon at the head of the ⁹⁾Adriatic. For centuries it has threatened to vanish beneath the waves of the ¹⁰)acqua alta, relentlessly regular flooding caused by the ¹¹⁾complicity of rising tides and sinking foundations, but that is the least of its problems. Just ask Mayor Massimo Cacciari about the acqua alta and Venice sinking, and he says, “So go get boots.”
在意大利，连灾难都以洛可可式的浮夸姿态呈现、处处都让人惊叹，没有哪个地方的危机比威尼斯来得更美丽。这座城市既不属陆地也不属水域，而是介乎于水陆之间，如海市蜃楼般浮在亚得里亚海最前端的一片泻湖上。几个世纪以来，它都面临着消失在大潮（涨潮及地基下陷所引起的定期爆发且严重的水灾）巨浪下的危险，但那还只是小问题而已。询问市长马西莫·卡奇亚利关于大潮与威尼斯下沉的事，他会回答：“那就去买靴子吧。”

Boots are fine for water, but useless against the flood that causes more ¹²⁾hand-wringing than any lagoon ¹³⁾spillover: the flood of tourism. In May 2008, for example, on a holiday weekend, 80,000 tourists ¹⁴⁾descended on the city like ¹⁵⁾locusts on the fields of Egypt. Public ¹⁶⁾lots in Mestre, a mainland part of the municipality where people park and take the bus or train to the historic center, filled and were closed. Those who managed to get to Venice surged through the streets like ¹⁷⁾schools of ¹⁸⁾bluefish, ¹⁹⁾snapping up pizza and ²⁰⁾gelato, leaving paper and plastic bottles in their ²¹⁾wake.
靴子挡得了水，却无法应付那种比任何泻湖满溢都更令人担忧的观光客泛滥之灾。以2008年5月为例，一个假日周末就有8万名游客涌入这个城市，就像埃及田野上的蝗虫一样。梅斯特雷的公共停车场——市内的一块陆地区域，人们在此停车然后搭乘公交车或者火车前往古城中心区——因爆满而被关闭。那些成功进入威尼斯的人如成群的青鱼般扫过街道，买来比萨和意大利艺术冰淇淋便狼吞虎咽，所到之处只见遗留下来的包装纸和塑料瓶。

“Beauty is difficult,” Mayor Cacciari said. And the problems lie elsewhere. The cost of maintaining Venice: “There is not enough money from the state to cover it all—the cleaning of canals, restoration of buildings, raising of foundations. Very expensive.’’ The cost of living: “It’s three times as costly to live here as in Mogliano, 20 kilometers away. It’s affordable only for the rich or elderly who already own houses because they have been passed down. The young? They can’t afford it.”
“美也是件难事啊，”市长卡奇亚利说。而问题在于其他方面，那就是维护威尼斯的花费：“政府没有拨出足够的钱来支持各个方面的开支——运河的清理、建筑的修复、地基的提高。这些开支都很大。”另外，还有生活成本：“跟20公里外的莫利亚诺比，这里的生活成本足足是其3倍之高。只有富人和那些在此继承了祖屋的老人才能负担得起这样的生活开销。年轻人？他们根本负担不起。”

Finally, there is tourism. Of that, Cacciari the philosopher said this: “Venice is not a sentimental place of honeymoon. It’s a strong, contradictory, ²²⁾overpowering place. It is not a city for tourists. It cannot be reduced to a postcard.”
最后一点问题就是旅游业了。对此，身为哲学家的卡奇亚利说道：“威尼斯不是一个浪漫柔情的蜜月圣地，它是个强大、矛盾、令人为之倾倒的地方。它不是一座观光城市，也不能用明信片上的风景来概括这么简单。”

“When I arrived 30 years ago, the population was 120,000. Now it is less than 60,000.” Gherardo Ortalli, a professor of medieval history says. The decline seems ²³⁾inexorable. Last year alone, the resident population fell by 444. Ortalli thinks Venice will end up as simply a theme park for the rich, who will ²⁴⁾jet in to spend a day or two in their ²⁵⁾palazzo, then leave. “Everything is for sale,” he sighs. “Even Venice.”
“三十年前我来到这里的时候，这里的人口有12万，现在只有不到6万人，”研究中世纪历史的教授格拉多·奥他利如是说。人口的减少看来是不可阻挡的。仅仅是去年，常住居民人数就减少了444人。奥他利认为，威尼斯最终会完全变成一个富人专享的主题公园，供他们从四处飞来，在豪华住宅里呆一两天，然后离开的地方。“一切都在出售，”他叹气道，“连威尼斯本身也如此。”

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